Kedu ihe kpatara ị ga-eji tinye Lactic, Citric, na Acids ndị ọzọ na usoro nlekọta anụ ahụ gị

Ndinaya

• Mmiri Mandelic
• Lactic acid
• Malic acid
• Azelaic acid
• Acid Phytic
• Tartaric acid
• Mmiri citric
• Ngwakọta kacha mma
• Nyochaa maka

Mgbe ewepụtara glycolic acid na mmalite 1990s, ọ bụ mgbanwe maka nlekọta anụ ahụ. A maara dị ka alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), ọ bụ ihe mbụ na-arụ ọrụ n'ime ụlọ nke ị nwere ike iji n'ụlọ mee ngwangwa mkpụkọ akpụkpọ ahụ nwụrụ anwụ wee kpughee akpụkpọ ahụ dị ọhụrụ, dị nro, na-amị amị n'okpuru. Ka oge na -aga, anyị mụtara na mmepụta okpete nwekwara ike ịkwalite mmepụta collagen nke akpụkpọ ahụ gị.

Mgbe ahụ, salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) nke nwere ike igbari nsị sebum n'ime pores wee mee dị ka mgbochi mkpali, na-eme ka ọ dị mma maka acha ọbara ọbara, mgbakasị ahụ. (Lee: Salicylic acid ọ̀ bụ ngwa ọrụ ebube maka ihe otutu?) N'ihi ya, glycolic acid ghọrọ ụkpụrụ ọla edo maka mgbochi ịka nká na salicylic acid ghọrọ onye na-egbochi ihe otutu. Nke ahụ agbanwebeghị nke ukwuu ruo n'oge na -adịbeghị anya.

Ugbu a ụfọdụ ngwaahịa nlekọta anụ ahụ nwere acid ndị amachaghị nke ọma dịka mandelic, phytic, tartaric, na lactic. Kedu ihe kpatara mgbakwunye? "Echere m na glycolic na salicylic acid dị ka ndị na -eme ihe nkiri n'egwuregwu yana acid ndị ọzọ dị ka ndị na -akwado ya. Mgbe ha niile na -arụkọ ọrụ ọnụ, ha nwere ike melite mmepụta," Ọdịdị Onye otu Brain Trust Neal Schultz, MD, onye dibia bekee na New York City.

Ndị na -egwu egwuregwu a na -akwalite arụmọrụ maka ihe abụọ. Nke mbụ, ebe ọtụtụ acid na-enyere aka na exfoliation, "onye ọ bụla na-eme ma ọ dịkarịa ala otu ihe bara uru maka akpụkpọ ahụ," ka NYC dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD Ndị a gụnyere ịkwalite hydration, ịlụ ọgụ free radicals, na inyere aka dozie usoro ka ọ dị ogologo oge. (Njikọ: Ihe Nlekọta Nlekọta 5 nke Na-ewepụ Akpụkpọ ahụ Na-adịghị Mma ma Nyere Gị Aka inwete n'ime) Ihe kpatara nke abụọ bụ na iji ọtụtụ asịd na mkpokọta dị ala (kama ịbụ nke dị elu) nwere ike ime ka usoro ghara iwe iwe. "Kama ịgbakwunye otu acid na pasent 20, ọ masịrị m ịgbakwunye acid anọ na pasent 5 iji nweta nsonaazụ yiri ya na obere ohere nke ịkpata ọbara ọbara," Dr. Gross na -ekwu. (FYI, ngwakọta nke acids bụ anwansi dị n'azụ ụkwụ nwa.)

Yabụ kedu uru elele anya ndị a na-abata na ndị na-abịa na-enye? Anyị na -agbaji ya:

Mmiri Mandelic

Nke a bụ molekul buru oke ibu, yabụ na ọ naghị abanye n'ime akpụkpọ ahụ nke ukwuu. "Nke ahụ na-eme ka ọ dị mma maka ụdị ndị nwere mmetụta dị nro n'ihi na ịbanye n'ime omimi pụtara obere ihe ize ndụ nke iwe," Dr. Gross na-ekwu. Renée Rouleau, onye ama ama na Austin, kwuru na AHA a nwekwara ike inye aka "gbochie mmepụta nke ụcha ụcha." Na otu caveat. "Mandelic acid na -enyere aka melite iwepụ ma belata ohere iwe iwe mgbe ejikọtara ya na glycolic, lactic, ma ọ bụ salicylic, mana ọ nwere ike ọ gaghị ezuru onye ọkpụkpọ ike ịdị na ngwaahịa naanị."

Lactic acid

Ọ dịla ogologo oge-Cleopatra jiri mmiri ara ehi mebiri emebi na mmiri ịsa ahụ ya n'ihe dị ka 40 TOA n'ihi na lactic acid sitere na mmiri ara ehi nyere aka mee ka akpụkpọ ahụ ghara ịdị njọ-mana ọ nwetabeghị ọkwa ọkwa glycolic n'ihi na ọ siri ike, nke nwere ike ịbụ ihe oma. Lactic bụ nnukwu molekul, yabụ na ọ bụ ụzọ ọzọ dị irè maka ụdị mmetụta siri ike, na n'adịghị ka mandelic, ọ nwere ike zuru oke ịbụ onye ndu na ngwaahịa. Dr. Gross na -akọwa na lactic acid na -ejikọkwa na elu akpụkpọ ahụ ma na -akpali ya imepụta ceramides, nke na -enyere aka idebe mmiri na iwe. (Ikekwe ị nụkwala banyere lactic acid n'ihe gbasara ike ọgwụgwụ na mgbake.)

Malic acid

Site na mkpụrụ osisi apụl, AHA a na -enye ụfọdụ uru mgbochi ihe dịka lactic acid, mana "ọ dị nwayọ karịa," ka Debra Jaliman, MD, onye na -ahụ maka akpụkpọ anụ na New York City kwuru. Mgbe etinyere ya dị ka ihe na-akwado ya na usoro nke nwere acids siri ike dị ka lactic, glycolic, na salicylic, ọ na-enyere aka na-ekpochapụ nwayọọ na mkpali ceramide.

Azelaic acid

Ma AHA ma ọ bụ BHA, azelaic acid, nke sitere na ọka wit, rye, ma ọ bụ ọka bali, "nwere ma ọgwụ nje na mgbochi mkpali, na-eme ka ọ bụrụ ọgwụgwọ dị irè maka acne ma ọ bụ rosacea," ka Jeremy Brauer, MD, onye na-ahụ maka anụ ahụ na New York na-ekwu. . Ọ na -agwọ ha abụọ site na ịgbada n'ime eriri afọ, na -egbu nje ọ bụla dị n'ime ha wee kwụsị mbufụt nke ọrịa butere. Azelaic acid nwekwara ike "kwụsị imepụta oke melanin na -ahụ maka ntụpọ gbara ọchịchịrị, ntụpọ ntụpọ na ntụpọ na -adabaghị na akpụkpọ ahụ," Dr. Jaliman na -ekwu. Ọ dị mma maka akpụkpọ ahụ gbara ọchịchịrị (n'adịghị ka hydroquinone na ụfọdụ lasers) n'ihi na ọ nweghị ihe egwu hypo- ma ọ bụ hyperpigmentation, a kwadoro ya maka ụmụ nwanyị dị ime na ndị na-enye nwa ara. Nke ahụ bụ nnukwu mgbakwunye n'ihi na "ọtụtụ ụmụ nwanyị na -enwe nsogbu na melasma na imebi ime ime," Dr. Jaliman na -ekwu. (Nke a bụ otu esi ewepụ ụda akpụkpọ ahụ gị na ọgwụgwọ laser na peels.)

Acid Phytic

Acid ọzọ nke na-abụghị AHA ma ọ bụ BHA, ihe ngosipụta a bụ antioxidant, yabụ na-enyere aka igbochi radicals na-eme agadi. Ọ nwekwara ike igbochi isi ojii na ibelata pores. "Phytic acid na -arụ ọrụ site n'ịwelite calcium, nke jọrọ njọ maka akpụkpọ ahụ," Dr. Gross na -ekwu. "Calcium na -agbanwe mmanụ akpụkpọ ahụ gị site na mmiri mmiri ka ọ bụrụ wax, ọ bụkwa oke nsị nke na -etolite n'ime oghere, na -eduga na isi ojii ma na -esetịpụ pores ka ha wee yie nnukwu." (Nke a bụ ihe niile ịchọrọ ịma gbasara iwepụ isi ojii.)

Tartaric acid

AHA a sitere na mkpụrụ vaịn gbazere ma tinye ya na usoro glycolic ma ọ bụ lactic acid iji mee ka ọzịza ha sie ike. Mana uru ya bụ isi bụ ikike ya ịhazi ọkwa pH nke usoro. "Acids bụ ndị ama ama maka morphing pHs, ma ọ bụrụ na ha na-efegharị oke ma ọ bụ dị ala na ngwaahịa, ihe na-esi na ya pụta bụ mgbakasị anụ ahụ," Rouleau na-ekwu. "Tartaric acid nwere ike inye aka mee ka ihe kwụsie ike." (Njikọ: 4 ihe adịghị mma na -atụba akpụkpọ ahụ gị na itule)

Mmiri citric

Yiri tartaric, citric acid, AHA dị na lemons na wayo, na -edobekwa acid ndị ọzọ n'ime oke pH dị mma. Tụkwasị na nke ahụ, ọ na-arụ ọrụ dị ka ihe na-echekwa ihe, na-eme ka usoro nlekọta akpụkpọ ahụ nwee ike ịdị ogologo oge. N'ikpeazụ, citric acid bụ chelator, nke pụtara na ọ na-ewepụ adịghị ọcha na-akpasu iwe (site na ikuku, mmiri, na ọla dị arọ) na akpụkpọ ahụ. "Citric acid na-ejide n'ahụ adịghị ọcha ndị a ka ha ghara ịbanye n'ime akpụkpọ gị," Dr. Gross na-ekwu. "Ọ na-amasị m iche banyere ya dị ka akpụkpọ anụ Pac-Man." (PS ị ga-agụkwa na microbiome akpụkpọ gị.)

Ngwakọta kacha mma

Gbalịa ngwaahịa ndị a nwere acid maka mmụba ọkụ.

• Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($ 68; sephora.com) na -anya isi acid asaa.
• Elephant mmanya na -egbu T.L.C. Ọbara mgbede abalị Framboos Glycolic ($ 90; sephora.com) na -ebilite ọzọ mgbe ị na -ehi ụra.
• Nkwusioru Azelaic Acid nkịtị 10% ($ 8; theordinary.com) ụda ọbụna.
• BeautyRx site n'aka Dr. Schultz Advanced 10% Pads Exfoliating ($ 70; amazon.com) na-eme ka ọ dị nro, na-egbuke egbuke na ụlọ ọrụ.
• Dr. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($72; sephora.com) na-enye akpụkpọ ahụ kwa izu nke acid ise.

Nyochaa maka